Kanazawa & Shirakawa-go Itinerary (2026 Guide + Family Tips)
In this article, I share our best tips in Kanazawa and the surrounding area, including our discovery of the Japanese Alps and the traditional village of Shirakawa-go.
After our stop in Tokyo, Nikko, Kanazawa was our third stop during our one-month journey across Japan with our 2-year-old son.
After the calm and nature of Nikko, we headed into the Japanese Alps, to discover a city known for its gardens, samurai heritage, contemporary art, and easy access to UNESCO villages.
If you haven’t read it yet, this article is part of our complete one-month Japan itinerary with a toddler, where we share how to travel at a steady pace while respecting a child’s rhythm.
Quick overview
📍 Destination: Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture
⏱ Duration: 4 days / 3 nights
🏡 Accommodation: a perfect 2 bedroom house with tea ceremony room in a quiet residential area, 10 minutes walk from the city center, check it here on Booking.
Why visit Kanazawa?
Kanazawa is often described as “Little Kyoto,” but with fewer tourists and a much calmer atmosphere.
It’s compact, easy to explore on foot, and full of open spaces, perfect when traveling with a toddler.
From peaceful gardens to interactive art, everything felt accessible, safe, and welcoming.
A heartwarming welcome from our neighbors
One of our most memorable moments in Kanazawa happened right at the beginning of our stay.
Our 2-year-old son was crying inside the house. When we stepped outside, an elderly man was waiting quietly at the door.
For a second, with our European habits, I worried that the noise had bothered him.
Instead, he smiled… and handed a cookie to our son.
Throughout our stay, we met this elderly couple several times, always smiling, always happy to see a child.
Once again, Japan reminded us how deeply caring and kind people can be toward children.
Day 1 – Discovering Kanazawa & the Castle Park
We started gently, exploring the city and walking through Kanazawa Castle Park.
Wide paths, greenery, and open spaces made it ideal with a stroller and for letting our son walk freely. It’s a perfect first introduction to Kanazawa’s history and atmosphere.
Nearby, we also visited Nagamachi, the former samurai residential district of the Kaga Domain. Walking through its narrow streets full of old-world charm, we discovered traditional houses called bukeyashiki, where feudal warrior families once lived.
Our Favourite Cafés & Bars in Kanazawa
Kanazawa is not only a city of history and traditional architecture — it also has an incredible creative scene, especially when it comes to cafés, bars, music, and design. As big lovers of music, vinyl records, and cosy places with a unique atmosphere, we discovered a few gems during our stay.
1.Kanazawa Music Bar
As a huge music and vinyl lover, I have rarely come across a place as beautiful as Kanazawa Music Bar. This modern and stylish Japanese music bar is a true paradise for audiophiles, where you can relax while vinyl records play through an incredible sound system designed for exceptional listening experiences.
The interior immediately caught our attention: a stunning combination of warm wood, minimalist design, and beautifully arranged shelves filled with hundreds of vinyl records. The atmosphere is both sophisticated and welcoming, making it the perfect place to enjoy a drink while discovering new music.
📍 Kanazawa Music Bar on Instagram
2. Record Cafe&Bar SHIKA
Another beautiful discovery was Record Cafe&Bar SHIKA, a place where music and food come together perfectly.
Once again, we loved the incredible interior, filled with character and personality, with turntables, vinyl records, and carefully selected musical discoveries. It’s the kind of place where you can easily spend hours browsing records, listening to music, and enjoying a relaxed lunch.
A perfect stop for music lovers looking for a unique and authentic experience in Kanazawa.
3. CraftBeer Bar&Pub TatemachiCHE
For a cosy evening, we also recommend CraftBeer Bar&Pub TatemachiCHE. This welcoming little bar combines everything we love: great music, a warm atmosphere, and of course, excellent craft beers.
We had a great time there, enjoying the relaxed vibe and discovering their beer selection. A fun surprise: we even found a Belgian beer from back home on their menu!
If you enjoy discovering local bars with personality, good drinks, and a friendly atmosphere, this place is definitely worth adding to your Kanazawa itinerary.
Day 2 – Kenrokuen Garden & Contemporary Art
Kenrokuen is considered one of the three most beautiful gardens in Japan, and it truly deserves its reputation.
We wandered slowly among ponds, bridges, and carefully sculpted trees.
Highlight of the visit? Tasting an ice cream covered with a gold leaf, Kanazawa’s famous specialty. Delicious, fun, and surprisingly light.
In the afternoon, we visited the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, famous for Leandro Erlich’s iconic swimming pool installation.
It is very important to book your tickets online in advance for both the museum and the pool (2 tickets !), as everything was sold out when we arrived. Luckily, a very kind security guard gave us a ticket to visit the pool because we were with a child.
Even better with a child:
Outside the museum, interactive artworks and open spaces turn the area into a giant playground. Our son could run, explore, and enjoy art in his own way.
Day 3 – Shirakawa-go & Gokayama (UNESCO villages)
We left early in the morning by bus to visit Shirakawa-go and Gokayama, historic villages famous for their traditional gassho-zukuri thatched-roof houses.
It was colder there, with remnants of snow, and absolutely stunning.
Important tip:
Book your bus tickets from Kanazawa to Shirakawa-go in advance here, both outbound and return. Seats sell out quickly, especially in the afternoon.
We couldn’t even change our return time because everything was full.
What to eat in Shirakawa-go ?
Menchi Katsu: deep-fried meat croquettes (beef, pork or mix), crispy and comforting
Shirakawago Purin: a famous local pudding from Purin no Ie, creamy, light, made with pure regional water, served in adorable glass bottles. Yes, it’s worth the queue.
Leaving Kanazawa… with a story to tell
After Kanazawa, we headed toward Okayama via Osaka, with a final anecdote worthy of Japan:
Dimitri didn’t exit the Shinkansen fast enough… and continued his journey alone.
Too late? Train gone?
Well… welcome to Japan !
Next stop: Kanazawa → Okayama
In the next article, I’ll share our experience in Okayama and Naoshima, the island of contemporary art.
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